Port Elizabeth Update

It's been a powerful last few days, as we have spent time deeply in two schools - Sapphire Road Primary, with Principal Bruce Damons; and Charles Duna Primary, with Principal Nombulelo Sume. These are two extraordinary leaders and individuals, who are not only running schools, but true community centers addressing the needs of their respective neighborhoods (we'll tell this part of the story in more detail in a future blog).

Our second day at Sapphire on Wednesday was highlighted by Matt's teaching his classmates a Nigerian song he learned at The New School (thank you, Jah Breeze!) - "Funga Alafia." Ms. Aileen, the school's Mrs. Everything, even helped Matt search out a suitable drum (big blue jug). It was quite a sight watching the energy for the song spill out of the classroom to the lunch recess, where more students joined the "choir," and Matt unintentionally collected quite a following. He loved teaching his classmates the song, but I think the attention got a little intense for him at recess. Chrissie finished up her beading projects, and continued her growing connection with her new friends.

The last two days we have been at Charles Duna, another primary school serving 958 students in the black township of New Brighton (the student population is 100% black, with many students starting school only speaking Xhosa). Most of the students come from the "informal settlements" (the tin and cardboard shacks that go for miles around the edges of PE) surrounding the government housing within the township - all are very poor - and again there is a 90+% unemployment rate in the community. The government is building more permanent housing, but as soon as one family moves out of one of the informal settlement homes, a new family will move in. There is a great deal of migration into the urban areas from the rural townships, so the government's attempt to move folks out of the informal settlements will take years. While there has been social progress in the years since apartheid ended (1994 was the election of Nelson Mandela and the new government), there is still significant economic work to be done.

New Brighton was an important center of the struggle against apartheid, and we visited a museum in the neighborhood (Red Location Museum - http://www.freewebs.com/redlocationmuseum/) - dedicated to chronicling the struggle, and focusing on the stories from the community. It is a powerful exhibition, and the museum is set in the middle of the community with both "official" government housing and informal settlements surrounding it.

While at Charles Duna yesterday, we also visited the homes of two students (with the students, Principal Sume, and Deputy Principal Cynthia). Both homes were in the informal settlements. While from the outside these homes look like they are barely standing, they are works of significant resourcefulness and perseverance - and are HOMES, not just shelters. One of the families we visited has lived in their home for 18 years! While it felt somewhat voyeuristic to come to see the families in their homes, the families and the school leadership are committed to making sure their story is told outside the community - helping the broader community (in and out of South Africa) to understand that the end of apartheid does not automatically mean an end to the conditions apartheid created.

Today at Charles Duna we worked with a grade 6 and grade 7 class on art projects - doing decopage (sp?) - painting and decorating trays students had made. It was a great time of sharing with and hearing from the students, while exercising the right side of our brains. We were also treated to a wonderful performance of the school choir and dancers.

We have experienced a great range of things in these days, strong connections with colleagues, budding relationships with families and students, difficult situations of poverty and struggle.... In all of this, the constant theme of our time here has been one of exceptional hospitality - at every point we have been warmly welcomed and graciously cared for. This hospitality says so much about the spirit, character and resilience of the people of Port Elizabeth. We are so blessed to have the privilege of building relationships here.